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Nepal, Khumbu β€” Sagarmatha National Park

From Chang to Imported Beer

A teashop owner on how two decades of tourism rewired daily life in Khumbu.

This story is a Tourism Voices Original and was recorded in the early 2000s. Recent visits show that many aspects of it are still relevant. The Tourism Voices Assessment project will update the story soon.

I have a small teashop. More teashops have opened along the trekking routes since I started, but they're mostly used by porters and other low-income travellers. A few tourists stop by to try the food, but most head to the lodges for meals and drinks.

I've seen a lot of change in how Sherpa people live and what we consume over the last few decades. Sanitation and hospitality have both improved a great deal. Almost everyone around here makes their living from tourism these days β€” the number of lodges has grown at an astonishing rate.

We used to drink chang, our local beer β€” now we sell imported beer. There's raksi, our local wine, but also bottled wine from other countries. And Coca-Cola, clothing, equipment β€” whatever tourists might want or need, we try to offer it.

Life has gotten more expensive; prices are high, because people only have six months a year to earn what has to last them twelve. But prices don't differ between locals and tourists β€” everyone pays the same. On the other hand, people are earning a lot more too. I think for most of us, incomes and costs have found a fairly reasonable balance.

What changed wasn't just what's for sale β€” it was what a year's income has to cover.