The stories of the people you visit, in their own words

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Nepal, Dolpa — Juphal

Fifty-Five Kilos to Dunai

A local porter on being undercut by labour from the Everest region, borrowed boots he has to give back, and the one job on the mountain that comes with life insurance.

This story is a Tourism Voices Original and was recorded in the early 2000s. Recent visits show that many aspects of it are still relevant. The Tourism Voices Assessment project will update the story soon.

Porters are often looked down upon because the misconduct of a few is blamed on everyone. In reality, porter work takes many forms. Some carry for tourist groups, others transport goods between Juphal and villages, and some combine carrying with farm work.

Competition defines our livelihood. Agencies usually bring their own porters and hire Dolpa workers only when short-handed. Some bring labour from as far away as the Everest region.

A local porter can earn about 350 rupees a day carrying a 55-kilogram load from Juphal to Dunai—almost the same as on a trek. Tips are often the only reason to prefer tourism work.

We carry the weight of tourism through Dolpa, yet we are usually the last people agencies think of hiring.

Caste also shapes the occupation. Most porters come from lower-caste families, while higher-status people generally refuse the work. Agencies normally provide warm clothing, sunglasses, boots and trousers but expect everything back after the trek. Only wealthier companies let porters keep the equipment.

The terrain makes this dangerous work. Porters have insurance for injury and death and receive extra payment if illness forces them home. These protections matter, but they do not remove the physical risk.

A porter is not simply a load carrier; we are workers whose safety, equipment and dignity should be part of every trek’s cost.

If agencies genuinely want tourism to benefit Dolpa, they should begin by hiring, equipping and respecting the porters who already live here.