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Nepal, Dolpa — Juphal

Seventy-Five Rupees a Tent

The only local hotel owner in Juphal on a house he never meant to rent out, jealousy that keeps neighbours from going into business, and the rubbish that won't stop piling up.

This story is a Tourism Voices Original and was recorded in the early 2000s. Recent visits show that many aspects of it are still relevant. The Tourism Voices Assessment project will update the story soon.

He built his house in Juphal without any plan to run a hotel — the original idea was simply to rent it out. Nine years on, Hotel Mount Putha is one of only two locally owned businesses among roughly thirty-five households at the Juphal airport; the rest are rented out to migrants running their own ventures, though none of those houses have actually been sold. He's satisfied with how things have gone, even though he earns just 75 rupees per tent, per night, from tourists camping on his ground.

The hotel survives mainly on support staff — porters and guides — along with other Nepalese travellers who need food and a bed, rather than on the tourists themselves. Occasionally a tourist buys vegetables or chicken directly from him. Porters, the largest group actually working in tourism here, suffer from pricing that's never been standardised, a situation that shortchanges both the porters and the people hiring them.

First of all, local people do not know how to provide or improve tourism related services and facilities. Secondly, they can not get a loan of more than one hundred thousand rupees from the bank, which is not enough to invest.

Beyond the financing gap, he points to something less official but just as limiting: jealousy. Watching a neighbour succeed in business doesn't inspire imitation here so much as resentment, which he thinks helps explain why so few locals have gone into tourism themselves. What business does happen locally often runs on credit extended between neighbours — credit that has a habit of turning into bad debt.

Because Mount Putha sits at the end of many tourists' journeys, it absorbs the rubbish they leave behind before heading home. Non-biodegradable waste — cans, glass — gets buried in the farmland or hidden under the toilet roof, but the volume keeps growing faster than he can manage it.

Juphal's culture, by his account, hasn't shifted much — the same outlook and attitudes persist. About a quarter of the community is still self-sufficient in food, though government-subsidised rice, flown in by air, has made imported rice the more convenient choice, quietly pushing local rice cultivation into decline.

Infrastructure has improved on the whole — trails and bridges especially — though the first stretch from Juphal toward Dunai, up to Kalagauda, remains rough and confusing for newcomers. Education hasn't kept pace: Juphal has produced only one person with a graduate-level education, and neither the school's limited resources nor most parents' follow-through have done much to change that.